Finland for foodies: Finnjävel & Demo, Helsinki

Finnjävel has become known for its modernization of classic Finnish regional dishes. Offerings include, for example, Karelian pasty, although it doesn’t quite look like what Finns are typically accustomed to. The man behind Finnjävel, the “Finnish devil,” is Tommi Tuominen, a top chef well-known even from TV.

Currently, Tuominen works with three restaurants. He serves as the head chef and restaurateur at Demo and Finnjävel, and he is also an owner at Groteski restaurant. Demo was Tuominen’s first restaurant, which he established at the age of 25. Four years later, it received a Michelin star. Nowadays, Tuominen has two stars, as Finnjävel Salonki also holds a star. Currently, about 80 percent of his time is spent at Finnjävel, where he is involved in kitchen work. His favorite place during service is at the hatch, finishing off dishes.

Finnjävel has two sides: the more relaxed Sali and the sophisticated Salonki, which offers a five or eight-course tasting menu. In the same building, there is an art museum, which is why cultural experiences, such as singing performances, are occasionally organized in the restaurant. The restaurant also hosts top chef visits from abroad.

Ideas for the restaurant’s new dishes are sought by traveling around Finland, tasting, and exploring regional specialties. Finnjävel menu has featured items such as läskisoosi, traditional Finnish pork belly stew, dill meat, prune stew, blood sausage, tongue roast, layer porridge, pancake, and blood pancake. Traditional recipes also dictate the ingredients. For example, only the peppers used in the original recipes are used.

Tampering with traditional recipes is always a bit risky. They often involve deep emotions and strict views on what the right preparation method is. However, Finnjävel has avoided controversies. Customers have accepted the restaurant’s idea of preserving and protecting Finnish food heritage in a new way. Finnjävel has also organized competitions where people can submit their own beloved traditional recipes. Their popularity has been surprising.

One Finnish classic has not made it to the menu despite attempts: fish pie. Several versions have been tried, but none have been satisfactory. The rye crust has always been too dominant, or the flavor has strayed too far from the original, making the dish unrecognizable. But Tuominen is not giving up.

Meet the chef Tommi Tuominen

The Finnish ingredient which gets your creativity flowing?

The ordinary yellow onion. Extremely important and versatile. It works raw and cooked. It gives structure and sweetness to broths. You can make crispy, roasted biscuits and muesli from it, and velvety purées, anything really. There is always something new to discover.

The wildest flavor combo you’ve created?

Store-bought liver casserole with ketchup. The combination sparked a debate, so it had to be tested. Well, it was just as unusual as it sounds. No need to try it again.

A song which sets your kitchen on fire

Mr. Oizo’s “Cut Dick.” Good tempo and a good vibe that adds speed to the kitchen. Music plays during prep time; there is none during service.

When @FINNJÄVEL, taste

Lard sauce. I am particularly pleased and proud of this modernization. The overall taste is authentic.

When @DEMO, taste

Dishes at Demo change often, and old ones don’t return to the menu, so there are no standard dishes.

When @HELSINKI, do

Start your day at Market Square with the Toripojat pancake coffee and Eromanga meat pie. Helsinki city center is compact, so you can explore it in a couple of hours. I recommend stopping by the Kiasma, Ateneum, or Amos Rex art museums. End the day with an archipelago cruise. Helsinki is magnificent from the sea.

Go visit Finnjävel & Demo

• finnjavel.fi

• Ainonkatu 3, Helsinki, Finland

• restaurantdemo.fi*

• Uudenmaankatu 9–11, Helsinki, Finland (*open until July 2024)